Climbing pages

Route listing

See sketch diagram for climb locations

Climbs are described from left to right starting from a grassy leftwards-slanting ramp at the left end of the quarry (not the end but about 30 metres from the end of the quarry).

 

Clea Wall

1. Faulds – 6m – S – start below a wide crack, 17 metres to the right of the ramp. Climb the crack and loose groove above.

2. Lynedraw – 7m – S – Climb the obvious corner to the right.

3. Dunbeath – 8m – HS – 4c – Start just to the right of the corner of Lynedraw, just below a square cut arete. Gain the arete and follow it to the top.

Six metres to the right of Dunbeath is a left facing groove, and a further 5 metres along to the right are two thin cracks which form a V.

4. Aughertree – 8m – S – Climb the wall to the left of the V to reach the left hand crack at mid height, follow this to the top.

5. Snittlegarth – 8m – HS – 4b – Climb the crescent shaped crack 5 metres to the right of aughertree.

 

Main Wall

A steep smooth wall separated from Clea Wall by an area of broken rock X metres wide

6. Rash Raiser – 9m – VS – 4b – Climb the arete which forms the left edge of main wall.

7. Whelpo Way – 9m HS – 4a – below a thin crooked crack 5m to the right of Rash Raiser. Climb the crack.

Move right beyond a left facing corner groove, to another steep wall offset from the line of main wall. The last two documented climbs are found here.

8. Thistlebottom – 10m – VS – 4b – Start by an overlap at the left side of the wall. Follow a right slanting crack to its end then move left to a slab and finish up this.

9. Biggards – 9m – HVS – 5a – Climb the curving crack which runs the full height of the wall.

From the above descriptions it is obvious there are lots of gaps to be filled in – many of these are likely to have been done – they’re not that difficult. I’ll add the climbs as they become available – you know my email address – get busy.

 

 

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